|
11603 Readings
20 on line
|
October 30, 2004
My computer crashed three days before I’m to leave for Chile to partake in the celebration of Pablo Neruda’s 100th birthday. I called my repairman —Chilean poet, translator, publisher and friend Elias Letelier who lives in Ottawa. He, the one who arranged my visit and was coming with me, said sure and off I drove to Ottawa on a sunny, Group of Seven kind of leaf-turning October day. And along the way, past Lake of Two Mountains, near Ste Eugene, I saw a gaggle of Canada Geese in their ragged V off to the south and I thought how in a few days, I too will be up there on my way.
My connection to Chile is Elias. Almost twenty years ago, by coincidence, we were both invited to be guests on a CBC midnight show (Brave New Waves). We didn’t know each other and certainly did not know of each other. One of the many things we talked about was the role of the poet in his society, mine (Hungarian) and ours (Canada). He was exiled after being jailed and tortured. He wrote a poem the Pinochet gov’t didn’t like. It’s called
The Last Will Be First
The cat jumped onto the table
Ate the bread and licked the tablecloth.
Then we sat down at the table
And ate the cat.
A government scared of a poem. Imagine! What power! What responsibility!
I came from a country where even butchers recited poetry. It has a national poem. In 1848, Sandor Petöfi stood on a table top in a tavern and recited his poem that became the trumpet for freedom. Then he and others rode off and were killed. And I remember having to learn it by heart. Imagine! Poetry that matters!
And here we were in our new country where poetry did not matter; got lip service at best and the profound disdain of colonial-mentality academics at worst. We hit it off and spent about three hours at a bar continuing our conversation. And it hasn’t stopped. Over the years I have seen his commitment to the people of Chile and all other oppressed people expressed politically and poetically, usually interlocked.
He is my window to Chile which he describes as “my beautiful country”. When was the last time I read such a declaration of love about Canada from a Canadian poet? And why not? Too corny? Perhaps, but he said it with such sincerity and without chauvinism.
He spent all day fixing the computer and we talked about the trip. He was excited more about showing me his “beautiful country” then about going home. Such is his generosity. After it was fixed, I sent out an e-mail to my mailing list to tell you about my computer crash.
And I got back from the poet Emile Martel thoughts about Chile.
“A country which prides itself of its writers, mostly when they are dead. My feeling is that Neruda was a profound embarrassment to the whole fascist crowd from '73 to the departure of Pinochet; but there was somewhere in the hearts of all Chileans a feeling of vindication since the country has always been recognized as the most cultured of Latin America. Gabriela Mistral was not a coincidence, in that context.” “…go to La Chascona, Neruda's main residence; up the hill, with no view; but a universe in itself; a testimony to the poet and his loves and his collections.” “. . . go, you must, to Isla Negra, which is not an island; it is by the sea, with an awesome view; it has a large part of Neruda's compulsive collecting. It is not far from Valparaiso; a couple (?) of hours drive from Santiago. This is where Neruda and his last wife - la Chascona -- are burried; with a view to the Pacific. Chateaubriand is the only one I know who is as well housed in death.”
And from poet David McFadden an article Memories of Chile in the Midst of an American Presidential Campaign by Ariel Dorfman published on Wednesday, October 27, 2004 by TomDispatch.com
Day after day over the past three years, as I watched Americans respond to the terror that unexpectedly descended upon them on September 11th, 2001, the direst memories of Chile and its dictatorship resonated in my mind.
There was something dreadfully familiar in the patriotic posturing, the militarization of society, the way in which anyone who dared to be faintly critical was automatically branded as a traitor. Yes, I had seen that before: "You are either with us or against us." I had seen it far too often -- national security trumpeted as a justification for any excess in the pursuit of an elusive enemy.
Who could have imagined that in the United States, with its independent judiciary, thousands of men could be rounded up in the night -- many only because of their Muslim religion or foreign nationality -- without recourse to a trial, without even an acknowledgment that they had been arrested? Who could have dared to suggest that there would ever be "desaparecidos" in America? And there it was as well, torture being discussed as a legitimate option to protect a community in peril, and then being used in Guantanamo and Afghanistan, and even obscenely photographed in Iraq -- yes, there they were again, the depressing echoes of my Chile.
But worse perhaps than all of this was the erosion of the moral compass of America, the seeming indifference of the seeming majority to the suffering of others, the casual acceptance of "collateral damage" as an unquestioned consequence of the war on "terrorism," the demonization of an ubiquitous foe who had to be destroyed without second thoughts -- and often without first ones as well; without, in fact, any thoughtfulness at all. That was far more terrifying than the criminal attacks on New York and Washington: to realize that the Chile of strongman Augusto Pinochet was not that far away, not that difficult to imitate, that it was already hovering in the future and ready to materialize if we were not vigilant.
I would read the news each morning in my home in North Carolina and each morning I would feel the same sudden stab of vertigo. Was history repeating itself yet one more tired time? Could it really be that simple to corrupt American democracy? Could the citizens of the United States be so easily twisted and manipulated by their fear?
The answer was, in fact, no, not that easily.
Over the last year, everywhere I have turned in the United States, I have seen signs of an amazing spirit of resistance, another sort of better America mobilizing, citizens not moved by dread but by hope, a vast and plural and creative wave of activism that I had not witnessed since...well, since the year 1970 when my country elected Salvador Allende as our President, when gentle armies of my fellow countrymen and countrywomen took their destiny into their own hands and proclaimed to the winds of history that it was possible to build socialism using democratic means, that we did not have to terrorize or persecute our adversaries in order to free ourselves from oppression.
If the present American campaign for the presidency reminds me of that revolutionary moment in Chilean history more than three decades ago, it is not because John Kerry is at all like Salvador Allende or George W. Bush is a clone of Augusto Pinochet. But there is in the American air today the trembling prefiguration of the same sort of enthusiasm, the same conviction that each of us can make a difference, that history belongs to those who dare to imagine an alternative future. The world does not have to be the way we found it, the way we have been told it must remain: a message once sent to everybody by a multitude of hungry peasants in Chile marching to demand ownership of the land they had tilled for centuries for the benefit of others; a message transmitted again today by millions of angry internet subscribers to Moveon.org in the United States and defiantly announced by a widespread coalition of progressive American activists who are much more mature than the protestors of the Vietnam era and, I would wager, far outnumber them as well.
In Chile back then, as in the United States now, you could feel the same certainty that the last word has not yet been said.
What I do not quite know is if the new social activism in the United States has the same staying power as its Chilean counterpart. It took us almost a century of struggle to elect someone like Salvador Allende to the Presidency, and when he was overthrown by Pinochet in a military coup in 1973 -- on September 11th of all days! -- we kept fighting for seventeen years to rid ourselves of the dictatorship that misgoverned our land. We did not decide to give up on September 12th.
The real test will therefore come on November 3rd, the day after George W.
Bush crawls back to power or John Kerry rides this wave of social transformation into the White House. That is when millions of American men and women who have mobilized in unprecedented numbers over the last months will be faced with the real dilemma of their times: Are they to pack up and go home to the old apathy and submissiveness, or do they deeply understand that, no matter who wins or loses the election, it depends on them, one by one by one and all together, that their country never turn into even a semblance of the Chile of Pinochet? The struggle for the soul of America has barely begun.
And so my trip to Chile begins as a trip with poets; tips from poets.
Poets; the witnesses, the voices, the antennae reminding me of the beauty, the power and the responsibility. It seems so alien.
 |
PROEMCARDS FROM CHILE
Endre Farkas © 2007
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced in any form (excerpts for reviews are exempted) without the written permission of the author.
Published by Rubicon Press
Edmonton. Alberta
ISBN 978-09781616-3-7
(“Proems” is a term for a form that combines the language of poetry and the structures of prose.)
Dedicated to Elias Letelier and the people of Chile
I.
The Role of the poet in the World
“Honoured Poet”
Who would address a poet such a way?
Certainly no one I know.
“Honoured Poet
We invite you to Chile to participate in the nation wide celebration of
Pablo Neruda’s 100th birthday and in a conference on
“The role of the poet in the world”.
What do I know of “honoured” poets and their role?
I in a country which honours boys
who, liveon thin ice, shod with glittering steel,
skate like the god of the wingèd heel
and fire frozen rubber discs at each other.
I live in a country of which the poet
Abraham Moses Klein (1) wrote
“. . .from our real society
the poet has disappeared; he simply does not count,
except in the pullulation of vital statistics —
somebody's vote, perhaps, an anonymous taunt
of the Gallup poll, a dot in a government table —
but not felt, and certainly far from eminent —
in a shouting mob, somebody’s sigh.” (1)
And they wanted “honoured” poet me.
It felt so alien, so unCanadian Eh?
So I did the Canadian thing. Eh?
I flew south.
II
The role of the poet is to know.
Costumed as a gringo,
wearing the mask of knowledge,
I leave on All Hallows’ Eve.
I know that Chile is the spine of South America
sheathed between The Andes and The Corderillas.
I know that they don’t speak Latin.
I think they have Llamas.
I’ve seen “Missing”.
I know that Salvadore Allende,
the democratically elected socialist president of Chile,
died in the coup d’état headed by Augusto Pinochet,
backed by the United States on Sept. 11, 1973.
I know I don’t speak Spanish,
so I take along a bilingual edition
of Pablo Neruda’s poems.
I know that one Yankee dollar will buy me 600 pesos.
And I now know
there is no comfortable position
on an 18-hour second class flight to Santiago.
III
The role of the poet is to look.
My first glimpse of Chile is from 37000 feet up;
a sere-coppery,
dull-shimmering,
dimpled,
dented,
hammered,
beaten
pre-historic
land mass.
Landing in Santiago I am surprised
by the absence of police and the military.
I am surprised by the absence of machine
guns slung over shoulders.
The airport is modern, efficient and quiet.
I am surprised by the quiet.
Where is all that Latin passion?
IV
The role of the poet is to see.
“WELCOME TO CHILE”
General Motors
The dictatorship of the generals lives still.
Viva
General Motors
General Electric
General Foods.
Campagnero Victor Castillo, our host and driver,
who greets us with hearty hugs and kisses
is the Political Secretary of The Guldo Torres Cell
of the Communist Party of Villa Alemana.
V
The role of the poet is to be a tourist.
Santiago,
founded by Conquistador Pedro de Valdivia in1541.
Santiago;
old and new.
Santiago
beautiful and ugly
and everything in between.
And everywhere
palm trees,
broad avenues,
diesel discharge.
The city is busy
with living,
with opulence,
with choking poverty.
VI
The role of the poet is to lie well
We make an illegal left,
(once all left turns are illegal here),
and are immediately waved off by the police.
As they walk toward us in that mañana Latin way,
Elias, my poet friend,in battle fatigue
wearing his illegal Sandinista hat and pin,
jumps out of the car and marches toward them and,
with a voice comfortable with authority, declares
“We are on our way to see the Minister of Defense
and he is not a man to be kept waiting!”
I stay in the car and practice,
“por favor, General Consul Canada telefono por favor”
Elias will not be stopped,
he demands their names.
Shit!
We’re in for jail time for sure.
I wonder how many Yankee dollars it takes
to bribe a cop here.
Then,
all of a sudden,
they snap to attention,
salute and wave us on.
Viva Elias!
VII
The role of the poet is to guide
We park and walk toward the presidential palace.
“Isn’t it beautiful?
Here is a statue of our great hope,
Workers of my fatherland, have faith in Chile and her destiny.
Others will overcome this grey, sad moment
when treason strains to conquer.
Go forward knowing that much more sooner than later,
the great avenues will open anew to let pass free people
to build a better society. (2)
more revered in stone than in life;
now just a tourist attraction and a perch for pigeons.
Here is where dictatorship goose-stepped into power.
Here is where the people came to resist and were shot
from the Ministry of Justice rooftops,
from the Ministry of Interior windows,
from the Ministry of Defense doorways.
Here the blood of the people flowed in the gutters
and into the sewers.
Here bodies were tossed onto trucks
and dumped into rivers.
Here is where I grew up—and was most alive!
Yes, things have changed,
but the bullet holes in my heart and soul
still remain.” Elias says.
VIII
The role of the poet is ride
The highway to Villa Alemana fine:
no ruts, no potholes;
even offers free towing.
But of course, it’s private
and every couple of hundred kilometers,
we must pay.
Along the highway:
lush vineyards and shanties,
road side motels and discos,
The United Fruit and Del Monte plants,
soccer fields and military camps.
But not many people.
Must be siesta time. Eh Victor? I joke
“Non!
With the new economic paradigms,
siestas are no longer permitted.
The working day, if you have a job,
is between 10-12 hours, 6 days a week.
No, no more siestas!” Victor says
We exit the toll road
and take the public,
the more traveled,
the less well kept one.
The countryside grows greener, fuller.
The scent of Eucalyptus is in the air,
cleans the nostrils of exhaust and dust.
And atop hills, Victor cuts the engine
and we coast down in neutral.
“With the cost of gas, we economize
when and where we can.
And it’s good for the environment too”. Victor says.
We enter a labyrinth
of
small streets
busy with
mama y papa
dépanneurs,
shoemakers, beauty parlours,
vulcanizers and
a million other little stores
for the million odds and
ends of
daily life.
“They are the little economic engines that can
and serve as social centres where real news
is shared and spread
They are endangered species being driven to extinction
by multinational big box stores.” Victor says
We arrive and drive into an organic garage
and park under a canopy of grapevines.
Señor Castillo, a man of the earth,
greets and guides me through his garden of delights:
the sweet smelling fruit trees,
the aromatic herbs
and the brilliant coloured flowers rising up
under the inspiring sun.
I think the revolution begins here.
IX
The role of the poet is to say what is politically incorrect.
Victor’s family and friends greet us;
hugs and kisses all around.
Spanishless, I smile, hug back and stare
at the walls covered with decorative plates of
Chile, Che Guevara and Pablo Neruda.
The dining room table is laden
with welcome-food and drinks.
“Try the choros”, Victor says
It’s a swirl of egg-mayonnaise mixture-texture,
on the tip of which is a small, glistening, purplish thing.
It’s delicious.
“Choros” Victor says “is also Chilean for pussy”.
“Senor and Senoras,
I am glad that the first thing
that I had the pleasure of tasting in Chile is pussy.”
We salute each other with Pisco Sours.
X
The role of the poet is to toast and feast.
“To honesty and democracy,” Victor says
“To honesty and democracy,” we raise our glasses
After hours of passionate toasts to the workers
and odes to the struggle
and feasting on the harvest from the garden
Señor Castillo and Victor are off to be scrutineers.
And I,
I’m off for a siesta
XI
The role of the poet is to be up late
Round about midnight,
from one moment to the next,
from out of nowhere,
about 25 people appear.
They were Party members when it was illegal,
when they met clandestinely and were often on the run.
They know about appearing and disappearing.
In the middle of the night,
when ominous knocks frighten half the world,
a friend calls.
His words
touch the way the blind see,
caress, squeeze and leave fingerprints
on horrors we dare not name.
Tortured and called a fool
by men with electric courage,
who, with families to feed,
did their best not to be next.
He learned to confess to silence practiced in screams.
He learned to forget numbers, names and friends.
He learned to dress well for the resistance.
In the middle of the night,
when mass graves are filled with the disappeared,
a friend calls.
He longs to forgive
but can not,
not yet.
More, like magic, arrive
and the day, the vote, the results
are debated and toasted.
“We went from 5 to 10 percent.
And this is just the tip of the iceberg.” Victor says.
XII
The role of the poet is to see.
We climb to the rooftop for a smoke
and for the first time I see the Three Marias.
Gualichu was an Evil Spirit, who,
for his own selfish reasons,
took great pleasure in raining down famine, disease
and death upon the people.
He caused much suffering and loud lamentations
but their pitiful cries
got no further than their rafters
until they raised their voices as one
then their cry roused The Good Spirit,
from his deep sleep to intercede on their behalf.
He rose, eager as morning after night,
and chased Gualichu across the heavens,
but, alas, could not catch him.
Gualichu scoffed and laughed and rained down
more famine, disease and death.
All seemed hopeless and lost.
But just then,
the Good Spirit,
inspired by people’s, collective cries
took three stars, the Three Marias,
tied each to a single strand from his long beard
and flung them at the evil Gualichu —
and brought him down.
My new friends see hope
in this old Querandi Indian legend.
that haunt them day and night.
they share most willingly.
and a rousing version of the Internationale.
Roberto Rodrigues, an unemployed miner, is our guide.
“The natives were the first ones used.
Helmetless and in sandals,
they picked and scraped and shoveled
away their days in Del Diablo’s belly,
their only guardians, the Eucalyptus beam’s
creaks and groans before collapsing,
Roberto tells us to turn our lamps off.